Serbia!

Note: limited connectivity means delayed pictures...

Breakfast in Hungary, Lunch in Croatia, Dinner in Serbia.
Not bad, I say. As the dinner in Serbia involved local beer, wierd schnapps, followed by strong Serbian coffee (think quadruple Turkish coffee) it's best that this post is continued tomorrow..
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Fresh as daisies next morning, we use the Touareg to visit the local town, Scremska Mitrovica, which sits atop unexcavated Roman ruins. In sunny hot weather we see local historic churches and take lemonade in the square, which seems to be the thing to do. It's also cheap. Clearly, there aren't the resources to maintain the historic buildings (or maybe some buildings have negative memories...) but, with it's footbridge over the wide Savi river, it looks a nice place to live.

We decide to head some 60km to Novi Sad, the second largest city in Serbia but as we head there the darkening skies release lightening and sheets of rain causing the road to turn into a river in places. Negotiating this and a couple of accidents, we make Novi Sad and, eventually, park the car in a park where we can pay without opening a telephone account.

A (very) wet Novi Sad... Note the preparations for the EXIT festival

The city is big, thriving, and has some of the EU chains; clearly there is money around. We eat, take a look at the cathedral then motor over the Danube to see the Petrovardin Fortress and museum which is smallish but the staff are very helpful and allow us to see the underground tunnel and well system. Well worth a look. We decide we're wet enough after the museum and forego exploration of the large fortress itself,  heading back 'home', getting there around 6.30.
A good day and we feel lucky at being able to use the Treg to explore in this way.

A trip to Belgrade tomorrow, led by our intrepid 'Jack of all trades' and campsite owner Jovan, a man of considerable influence around these parts.
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Belgrade, a city of some two million inhabitants, proudly modern but with a tumultuous history, set at the confluence of the Danube and Savi rivers.

We join the coach trip with the group to experience a guided walking and coach tour, with a little time to ourselves. The local guide provides vast amounts of detail of the history of Serbia and Belgrade, some of which we remember. Actually being here underlines the reading we've done - and the fact that massive change has been so recent, too. Clearly there are strong and different opinions about the recent past and the path that Serbia should take in the future.

Have some random photos:

Breathtaking opulence beneath the cathedral which is undergoing major refurbishment.

The residence of Princess Ljubica in the mid nineteenth Century - now a museum.

Protest against NATO bombings

...and that's it from here. Moving south tomorrow.

News just in... and quite remarkable, too. New Leader