Jajce: Last stop in Bosnia and Herzegovina

An interesting drive today, to say the least. While we're almost forced off the road by a wildly driven HGV overtaking in traffic on a blind bend, at least there's no harm done, unlike our unfortunate tour leaders who suffer damage to their caravan through no fault of their own. Let's not beat about the bush: lots of Bosnian drivers are dangerous, which is a shame, as Bosnian people outside their vehicles are great, at least in our experience.

Poor WiFi around these parts so: a) this post is late and b) pictures are limited

We spend three relaxing nights here, exploring the local small lake and ingenious old mini watermills, one of which is in working order.

We get a guided tour of the local town, which turns out to be a political lecture from a local (very) left of centre local activist. It's fascinating non-the-less and it's illuminating to look through the eyes of these local guides and the (brutal) experiences that have shaped their thinking.

We view the 'birthplace of Yugoslavia' where Tito formed the agreement to unite the Balkan states under communism. Tito is revered by many today.

Gold plated TITO, which is how so many Bosnians think of him

On our last night here we eat together and get a free demonstration of local folk dancing, which is a real bonus and a hell of a lot better than the meal. Nice wine and beer, though.

So we're off to our final stop tomorrow. Oh dear.

Sarajevo: West meets East

We take another excellent drive to a campsite a few kilometres outside Sarajevo, the capital city of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

In many ways, Sarajevo symbolises religious tolerance; within the (mostly Moslem) population, there are orthodox Christians, Roman Catholics and a small number of Jews. There are Orthodox Christian churches of note, a small Synagogue and a Roman Catholic Cathedral in addition to the foremost Mosque in the country. The people and guides we have met here seem to mirror the tolerant attitudes we have already encountered in Mostar, with a pride in their multicultural stance - not fully tested that, of course.

Gazi Husrev Mosque

Synagogue

Roman Catholic Cathedral

Orthodox Church

And, of course, a London Bus masquerading as an Irish Pub...

We take both a group guided walking and coach tour of the city and a trip back in on our second day under our own steam, using the somewhat dilapidated but still functioning pre-(1991) war trams.

By far the most moving part of our tour is the explanation of the Siege_of_Sarajevo, when the Serbian army surrounded the city and continued to shell it while under UN supervision. The guide was ex police with scars to show for the horrendous experiences of risking life to bring in essential supplies to the beleaguered citizens. We see the tunnel under the UN held bridgehead that they constructed in order to achieve this. The death toll was extremely high and we wonder if the atrocities committed can ever be forgiven. It is almost as if the pride in tolerance and multicultural attitudes is seen here as a proud rebuttal of the genocide and torture so recently experienced.
The  stories of each country we visit are startlingly different; more on this later.

'Roses' .. grenade explosion site with red painted 'petals'

The tunnel of hope

We force ourselves to visit the Museum of Crimes against Humanity and Genocide to understand more. It is a deeply, deeply moving experience for us but something we are glad to have done.

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Stepping back from recent history, however difficult, we find a really relaxed city with a vibrant cafe culture that we really like. Yes, tourist shops abound but many of these are fed by workshops at the back, where goods such as Bosnian coffee sets are manufactured.

We have become somewhat addicted to these..

We spend some of our own time to see the Gazi Husrev Mosque and Museum, the Eternal Flame and the place where the Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated (thus starting WW1) in addition to time spent browsing the shops, cafes and people watching. There is so much to do here, we are in danger of exhaustion..

WW1 started here

The Mosque at Ramadan

The Eternal Flame

OK, that will do, I think. We're moving on to Jajce tomorrow - still in Bosnia Herzegovina. That's another post then...

Into Bosnia and Herzegovina: Mostar

It's a short but beautiful drive into into Bosnia and Herzegovina as we head towards our camp at Blagaj, some 15km or so from Mostar. The border crossings around these parts are somewhat confusing as we cross and recross before we finish up in the right country.

We call in at Pocitelj  village with a fort and attractive mosque on the way, which makes a fitting introduction to this mainly Muslem country.

There's a more atmospheric 10 sec mini movie  HERE

We settle into camp and, the next day, we travel together into Mostar old town for a guided mini tour. The old town is both beautiful and fascinating, if a bit of a tourist haven.

Our first view of Mostar

This mosque was, at one time, used as a synagogue once a week. It still bears a Star of David (no prize for spotting).

 We stay on after the tour and venture into the main town and visit an additional 'Turkish house' dating from Ottoman times. 

Although Muslem, the town seems relaxed, with very few women covering their heads in any way. Our guide has a mixed faith marriage, which is certainty not unknown here. Despite the war and radical positions of recent leaders, it seems that the people, at least here, are far more enlightened. 

A privileged place to be.....

The old bridge, Mostar

There are signs of the war damage everywhere and we find it quite a moving experience walking down the main street between bullet-marked buildings, some still shells.

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The following day, we explore the local town with fellow travellers, climbing some 400m to see an old fort which provides a fantastic view of the valley.

After lunch, we motor on to see some local sights, including the pilgramage town of Međugorge and the falls at Kravice after which we return to Mostar for an excellent traditional meal to end the day before returning to camp.

Ready for the worshipping hoards

The Kravice Falls

Sarajevo tomorrow, so a new post. See you then.

Dubrovnik, Croatia

A trip of some 140km along the wonderful winding coast road takes us to a spacious campsite on the fringes of Dubrovnik. As we cross the border into Croatia and the EU, the country's increased wealth becomes immediately obvious: newer cars, better roads and finished buildings. (We'll have more to say about Croatia when we return later in the trip).

Pausing en route

Made it

We wash and brush up and take the bus into the old town to take in the atmosphere before our guided tour tomorrow morning. We end up staying quite late, eating at a harbour-front restaurant and taking a final drink in a bar in an atmospheric square. Dubrovnik is all that we hoped it would be and more - if only it wasn't full of those damn tourists. There is a cruise ship in town though.

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The walking tour of the town is great and our guide is particularly good at putting the complex historical context together for us. It's not long since Serbia and Montenegro were shelling the city, after all; 1991, to be exact.

From the city wall

The main street as the hot sun goes down

..and in the hot sun from the city wall

We visit churches, museums and walk the city wall (a must) - all included in our tour, as we are provided with a one day inclusive tourist ticket.  Being a tourist town, there are restaurants everywhere and we have two great meals. The local beer isn't bad either.

We catch the bus back (thanks Google Maps for showing us where to get off), leaving Dubrovnik with very positive feelings of both the town and it's people.

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On our last day here, we can't resist a final trip into the old town. We use the cable car to visit the fort above the town that was instrumental in resisting the 1991 attacks by the Serbian forces and see an exhibition detailing the events of that time, including the severe bombardment of the old city of Dubrovnik; a fitting end to our time here. We also visit the Etnographic Museum which charts life in the area in the 18th and 19th centuries.

The Old Town from the fort

The moving start of the exhibition at the fort

Communications tower on the hilltop

Let's not forget that people live in this historic place..

So we leave Dubrovnik with some regret but looking forward to a complete change as we move into Bosnia tomorrow and head for our camp near Mostar.

Goodbye until then, then...